Today’s topic is a fun one. We’re talking about topwater frog fishing! Nothing beats the thrill of a giant topwater explosion just at dawn and reeling in a monster bass! Well today, we’re going to discuss which type of frog is right for you depending on your situation.
Just to be clear, we’re talking specifically about soft-bodied topwater frogs. They also make frog-colored poppers, wakebaits, etc., but that topic is for a later date.
Classic Hollow-Body Frogs: These frogs are the original hollow-body frogs. They have, like I said, a hollow body, two hooks on top of their bodies, and a skirt that acts as their legs. These frogs have an “A-shaped” nose to come through the nastiest slop as cleanly as possible (see picture below). These frogs’ main purpose is to be fished on top of the moss, slop, and grass. Because of the hollow-body, they will stay on top of the moss, and, since the hooks are on top of the frog, they will stay virtually weedless! I like to use multiple retrieves throughout the day to see which one the fish prefer. The first one I like to use is a quicker retrieve where I twitch the rod tip rapidly, using very few pauses. I like to use this retrieve until about an hour to an hour and a half after dawn and start using it again about an hour and a half before dusk. But, when the sun is up and temperatures spike, I like to use a slower retrieve, using more pauses between twitches because in the heat of the day, I have better luck fishing slowly with a frog. My favorite brand of hollow-body frogs is Pro-Z Baits frogs. They can be found at http://www.pro-zbaits.com!
Popping Hollow-Body Frog: These frogs are probably the most versatile of all of the hollow-body frogs. They also have a hollow-body, hooks on top of their bodies, skirts for legs. The only difference between the original and the popping frog is the front of the frog. The face of a popping-frog has a concave cup, just like a regular popper (see picture below). The reason I believe these frogs are the most versatile is because, while they aren’t ideal for thick slop because of the popping-cup on their face, they will still work for this application. I love to use these frogs in either open-water or sparse vegetation. I like to have a popping frog in this situation because it has a bit more fish-drawing power than the regular hollow-body frog. I like to use these frogs pretty much like a weedless popper. I will either fish them quickly with almost no pauses, or I will try a pop-pop-pause type retrieve. You really just have to play it by ear and see what the fish prefer.
Soft-Body Frogs: While I don’t use this style of frog as often as the other two, these frogs definitely have their place in you tackle box. These frogs are a bit different. They have legs that make a flapping motion in the water rather than just using a skirt, king of like a soft buzzbait (see picture below). Another thing about these frogs is they don’t come with a hook, so you will have to buy hooks separately (I like the double hook screw-lock type hooks like a Mustad or an Owner). You just screw the head of the bait into the hook, set the hooks on top of the bait, and you’re ready to fish! There is really only one way to work these frogs, and that is to just reel them. You can add slight pauses and twitches, but overall, it’s just one retrieve. These frogs tend to shine for me in really low-light conditions like right at dawn or dusk. I really like the Zoom Horny Toad and the Stanley Ribbit Frog!
Another point I’d like to talk about for a minute is the colors of your frogs. To make things simple, I like to stick to four main colors: black, white, natural frog, and brown. The colors I have listed here refer to the bottom of the frog, not necessarily the top. The fish obviously can’t see the top of the frog, so what the top looks like is completely irrelevant. Here’s how I breakdown which color of frog I use for certain situations. I like to use a white frog when there is a big shad population in the body of water. I use the brown frog in the backs of coves and places like that close to the bank because a brown frog imitates a small beaver, muskrat, groundhog, etc. (check our Pro-Z Baits’ ‘Scooby-Doo’ frog)! I prefer the natural color frog in clear water because the fish are able to get a better look at the lure. And I really like the black frog as an all-purpose frog, though it shines in low-light conditions. The black frog is ideal in many situations because black shows up very well. It creates a big silhouette in the water when the sun hits it. The only other color I will use occasionally is a frog with a chartreuse belly in extra-dirty water.
I hope that these explanations have helped you better understand the different types of frogs on the market today! As always, we love to hear from you so leave us a comment or e-mail us at email@example.com anytime! Once again, check out http://www.pro-zbaits.com for the exact frogs that I like to use every day! Thank you and have a great day!
A shaky-head is a rig that I never had much luck with in the past, until lately. There are many different styles of heads and ways to fish them, so that’s what we’re going to talk about today.
The first thing I’m going to discuss with you is my favorite style of head. To cut straight to the point, my favorite style of head is a round-ball head with a flat-bottom (pictured above). The reason I prefer a flat-bottom head, also called a stand-up head, is simple; when I’m fishing a shaky-head, I’m trying to catch fish that are being finicky. When you fish a shaky-head with a flat-bottom, it makes the bait stand up in the water (like the picture above), making the bait look more vulnerable, thus, luring the fish into thinking they have an easy meal. Almost all shaky-heads I’ve seen have a screw lock (see picture) that helps keep your bait locked in place more efficiently. I really only use the ones with a screw-lock on the head.
Ways I Fish a Shaky-Head:
A shaky-head has become a go-to lure for me when I get frustrated, and I hope these tips can help you in the future too! Be sure to subscribe to our page for more “tips and techniques” articles like this one! Also, we’d love to hear from you so either leave a comment or e-mail me anytime at firstname.lastname@example.org! Thanks and have a great day!
I know it can be difficult to make yourself spend a lot of money on something when there is a much cheaper alternative, and that brings us to the point of this article. Are tungsten weights worth the extra chunk of change you have to pay compared to the price of lead weights?
Lead: Lead has been used for years and is a staple in the bass fishing world. People use lead weights for everything from Texas-rigs to drop shots. Lead weights are also very cheap, you can even get them for as cheap as sixteen of them for $1.
Tungsten: The introduction of tungsten weights was revolutionary to the fishing world. The key selling point of tungsten is its density (1.7 times as dense to be exact). Since it is much more dense than lead, you can get away with a much smaller profile for the same amount of weight (see picture at the bottom of the page). For instance, a 1/2 oz lead weight is almost twice the size as a 1/2 oz. tungsten weight. Again, this is an advantage for tungsten because it’s much smaller in profile, but it’s the same weight. Also, because tungsten is harder than lead, it translates the bottom content much better than lead (rocks, soft bottom, etc.). The issue is, tungsten is MUCH more expensive than lead, usually about a dollar or two per weight.
So here’s a list of the pros and cons of each:
Tungsten is a much better alternative to lead if you have the funds for it, but it can be expensive. The good news is, I’ve found a loophole that I’m going to share with you today. Check out http://www.flipsideoutdoors.com! They have the cheapest tungsten weights I’ve ever seen, and it’s all I use now! When you place an order, be sure to send them an e-mail and tell them Midwest Fishing (Nick Scott) sent you!
I hope you learned a lot from this article today because this is a big topic that I hear being discussed a lot. Mae sure to subscribe to our page for more articles like this one. Also, we love to hear from you guys so be sure to send us e-mails or leave us comments with questions or any other inquiries. Thank you and have a great day!
(lead weight on the left, tungsten weight on the right)
Knowing the difference between the different kinds of structure in your lake can help you become a better angler in a hurry. If you fish a patch of grass the same way you would fish a rip-rap bank, you are more than likely going to have some disappointing days on the water.
In this article, I’m going to break down different types of structures and the ways that I like to fish them.
I hope you have learned the difference between certain types of structure and ways to fish them today! As always, feel free to leave us a comment or question and tell us what you think, or you can also e-mail me with other inquiries at email@example.com. Please subscribe and share with your friends if you like our stuff and check out our other articles! Thanks and have a great day!
First of all, I want to start this article by saying how grateful we are to each and every one of you guys. This is the first article we have written since we were on the “Wobbly Arrow” podcast and since we were on that podcast, our visitors, views, and subscribers have spiked dramatically. I want to say thank you to Jimmy Nees and Justin Horn at the “Wobbly Arrow” for having us on the show. Thank you all so much and keep sharing and subscribing!
Now that that’s out of the way, let’s talk about fishing, specifically, jig fishing. Today I’m going to discuss the different types of jigs and when I like to use each type of jig. I’m not going to get into which colors for certain situations because I have already done an article about color selection (linked at the bottom of the page), or you can e-mail me anytime at firstname.lastname@example.org for questions about anything!
I hope this breakdown of jigs helped answer some questions you might have about jigs! If there’s a question you still have about jig selection, I encourage you to either comment below or e-mail me at email@example.com. If you find our page and articles helpful, please subscribe and share our knowledge with your friends so you can all become better anglers. Thank you and have a great day!
A lot of people think if you only use spinning reels, you’re not a real fisherman. And, while I believe that this isn’t completely true, ninety-nine percent of tournament anglers use baitcasters in addition to spinning gear because the features you get with a baitcaster give you some advantages over those using spinning reels.
Advantages of a Baitcaster:
Disadvantages of a Baitcaster:
Advantages of a Spinning Reel:
Disadvantages of a Spinning Reel:
I hope the things I have listed here today will help advance your bass fishing knowledge. Thank you for reading and I encourage you to comment or e-mail me with questions at firstname.lastname@example.org. Make sure to subscribe to our page to receive notifications about articles that we post! Thanks again and have a great day!
One of the most important assets in your fishing arsenal is hook-set knowledge because the type of lure you are using determines how you should set the hook when you get a bite.
There are three main hook-set techniques that I use.
Vertical: This technique is my favorite way to set the hook. With this technique, when you are ready to set the hook, you reel up your slack line and absolutely hammer the fish. The baits in which you will use this type of hook-set would be your flipping jigs, Texas-rigs, topwater frogs, and most things where you’re trying to drive one (or two with a frog) thick hook into the fish. You could technically also use this technique for lures like a chatterbait or swim jig, but the issue with these is you have your rod tip at 9:00 and you’re constantly moving the bait, so you need to set the hook quickly (see the sweeping hook-set). Going back to, let’s say a jig, when you feel the bite and think the fish has it, you reel down and set the hook hard vertically over your shoulder. This should drive the hook right into the top of the fish’s mouth. I suggest Trapper Tackle’s wide gap hook. With their innovative design, you will hook, and land, more fish than ever before.
Sweeping: The sweeping hook-set is one of those techniques that has its place, but it’s not something I use very often; however, I ALWAYS use a sweeping hook-set when fishing a Carolina-rig. Once you feel the bite, you want to reel up any slack line between the rod tip and the fish, and once you feel the fish on the other hand, you need to sweep the rod across your body horizontally rather than vertically because the weight is separate from the bait. A sweeping hook-set is also something I do when fishing a chatterbait, spinnerbait, or swim-jig because my rod is already at a lower angle and when you feel the bite you can just sweep into the fish.
“Leaning”: This one is more of a made-up term for me, but it describes the action so well that I thought I would just call it the “leaning” hook-set. This is the technique I use when fishing anything with treble hooks such as crankbaits, poppers, walking baits, etc. Instead of setting the hook hard vertically or setting it with some force while sweeping the rod, all you want to do when you feel a fish hit the crankbait is lean into the fish with the rod. To do this, you will want to sweep, kind of like the sweeping hook-set, but with less force, like a lean (ergo the ‘leaning” hook-set).
Thanks for reading this article, and please check out our other articles on the website for more helpful tips! I’d love to hear from you so please leave a comment or e-mail me at email@example.com with any questions or feedback. Also, subscribe to our page for articles like this one and many more. Thanks again and have a great day!
One thing a lot of people struggle with, including myself sometimes, is trying to decided when to throw a chatterbait over a spinnerbait or vice-versa. In this article, I will break down the variables that help me decide which lure to throw in certain situations.
I want to start off by saying that I am biased towards a chatterbait in this argument, but I will remain neutral for the article. It’s not that I hate a spinnerbait or anything like that, I just have a lot more confidence in a chatterbait because I have caught many, many more fish on one.
Chatterbait: I’m going to start the comparison of the two by saying that when throwing a chatterbait, I always use a trailer. I like a paddle-tail swimbait or a fork-tail swimbait. I also only really throw three main colors of chatterbaits. Shad imitation (white/chartreuse, etc.), black and blue, and a natural color (like a green pumpkin variation). I like the black and blue when the water is murky, I like the natural when either the water is really clear or I’m trying to imitate a bluegill, and I like to throw a shad imitation in any water color as long as there are shad in the lake I’m fishing. My ideal condition for a chatterbait is cloud cover because it’s harder for the fish to get a good look at the bait. However, I do prefer it to be sunny if I’m throwing a white chatterbait with a silver or gold blade because of the reflection of light.
Like I said earlier, I prefer to throw a chatterbait over a spinnerbait most of time. Most people prefer to throw a chatterbait in the grass over a spinnerbait because it rips out more easily, and that’s true, but I also prefer to throw a chatterbait in and around wood, which is weird because most people like a spinnerbait in this situation. A lot of people seem to have trouble throwing a chatterbait around wood, which happens sometimes, but I have caught fish more times in those areas than I have been stuck, so I’ll take my chances at a snag every once in a while.
Spinnerbait: I said that when I fish with a chatterbait I always use a little swimbait trailer, well on a spinnerbait, I always, always use a trailer hook, and I’ll tell you why. When a fish strikes a chatterbait, it is attacking a single fish, so it’s locked in on the strike; however, when a fish hits a spinnerbait, it believes that it is attacking a small school of fish, so instead of locking in and striking one, it will swipe at all of them. Hence the trailer hook. If it’s locked in, it will eat the bait and you’ll be able to set the hook, but if it swipes it may not get the main hook, so it’s always good to have a trailer hook for a fall-back.
There are a few situations when I prefer a spinnerbait over a chatterbait. When I’m around rocks, I love to slow roll a spinnerbait just over the top of the rocks, and I also prefer a spinnerbait in super muddy water. I’ll take either a bright spinnerbait (like a blue/chartreuse) or a dark spinnerbait (black) with a big Colorado blade or two and make a lot of commotion, drawing more strikes.
If you can think of anything you think I missed or if you have your own opinions, leave a comment or shoot me an e-mail at firstname.lastname@example.org with any questions you may have. Also, please subscribe to our page to receive notifications every time we post a helpful article like this one. Thanks and have a great day!
I have had countless days on the water where a subtle difference in my lure color has made all the difference in the world. If you don’t know what changes to make at certain times, it could cost you big time. My lure color selection depends on a few factors; water color, amount of sunlight, and sometimes the time of year. Also, I do always like to dip my soft plastics in some chartreuse JJ’s Magic or Spike-It (except for super, super clear water).
Low-light conditions and muddy water:
Low-light conditions and clear water:
Sunny and muddy water:
Sunny and clear water:
I hope these tips have helped you out on your color selection the next time you’re out on the water! Feel free to comment on this post or e-mail me at email@example.com with questions or comments about this article (or others). Also, don’t forget to subscribe to our page for notifications about helpful articles like this one! Thanks and have a great day!
There are many different types and sizes of line now, and in my opinion, they all have their place in the bass fishing world. In this article, I’m going to break down the components of each type of line and which type of line I use for certain lures.
Monofilament: Let’s start out talking about the original line on the market, monofilament line. Even though it’s the oldest line, it still has it’s place in your boat at certain times. When you fish with monofilament, you will notice that the line has a lot of give to it, or a lot of stretch in the line when you set the hook. This stretch can be an advantage or a disadvantage depending on how you use it. While monofilament is not quite as invisible under the water as fluorocarbon line is, it is more invisible to the fish than braided line (we’ll get to that later in this article). Monofilament also floats, which is the main reason I use it for the lures I do. The lures I throw with monofilament line are topwater baits with treble hooks (poppers, walking baits, etc.), and I throw monofilament as my leader material for a Carolina-rig. I use monofilament line for topwater baits like these because it is has enough stretch in the line to not rip the treble hooks out of the fish’s mouth, unlike braided line, and it also floats, unlike fluorocarbon, which makes it easier to fish topwater lures on monofilament. The reason I use monofilament for my Carolina-rig leader material is because it floats and it can absorb some of the shock of the hook-set because of its stretch properties. Because the line floats, it will keep your bait slightly above the bottom of the lake while your weight drags the bottom (attracting fish) when fishing the Carolina-rig, and, like I said, it absorbs some of the shock of a hook-set, which helps you not rip the hook out of the fish’s mouth. Another reason to use monofilament, especially if you’re just starting out, is the price point. The monofilament I use is Berkley Trilene Big Game Monofilament line, and you can buy a 900 yard spool of this line for somewhere between seven and ten dollars. Monofilament line gives you a great bang for your buck.
Fluorocarbon: The advances in this line have taken tournament anglers by storm in recent years. With this line being almost completely invisible to the fish underwater and much more sensitive than previous monofilament lines, you can imagine what a big deal this line was and is. This line is a very versatile for a variety of lures simply because of this increase in sensitivity and decrease in visibility, but it also has very, very little stretch. Because of this, the main lures I throw on fluorocarbon are jigs, Texas-rigs, drop-shots, and you can use it on many other lures as well, but fluorocarbon gets expensive fast. If you buy a 200 yard spool of fluorocarbon, you can expect to spend somewhere between $15 and $30 depending on the brand. Because it gets so expensive, I tend to use an alternate, and that alternate is co-polymer line. I tend to use either P-Line’s 100% Fluorocarbon or Seaguar’s Red Label 100% Fluorocarbon (or Seaguar’s Invis-X 100% Fluorocarbon if I’m feeling fancy).
Co-Polymer: This line, quite simply, is a hybrid line between the two lines mentioned above; monofilament and fluorocarbon. Basically, this is a nylon line, like monofilament, that has a fluorocarbon coating around the line, giving it some fluorocarbon properties, like increased invisibility. I like to always use co-polymer line when I’m using crankbaits or jerkbaits, so I don’t have to pick between the good properties of monofilament or fluorocarbon, but the price tag that comes with this line is an absolute steal for the quality! I love P-Line’s Floroclear as my co-polymer of choice, and you can expect to spend a little under $10 for a spool of 300 yards.
Braid: This line is mainly used for absolutely laying hook-sets into fish. The main selling points of this line are its sensitivity and its no-stretch property. Because of the sensitivity, a lot of people, including me occasionally in muddy water, will throw their jigs and Texas-rigs on braided line to get better hook-sets, but the main lure that I, and most other anglers, throw on braided line is a topwater frog. Since the line has no stretch, you can still set the hook no problem into a fish when they explode on your frog at the end of a forty yard cast. This line is also incredibly strong, so you can really drag fish out of cover and into the boat with braid.
Now, I will give you a breakdown of which lures I throw on certain lines.
Monofilament – Topwater lures with treble hooks (poppers, walking baits, etc.), Carolina-rig (leader material)
Fluorocarbon (expensive) – Jigs, Texas-rigs, Carolina-rigs, chatterbaits, spinnerbaits, drop-shot, ned-rig, wacky-rig, shakey heads, and basically anything where you are setting the hook rather than just leaning into the fish with the rod (you can e-mail me with specific questions)
Co-Polymer (cheaper): Crankbaits, jigs, Texas-rigs, Carolina-rigs, chatterbaits, spinnerbaits, drop shot, etc. (same as fluorocarbon)
Braid: Topwater frogs, buzzbaits, jigs, Texas-rigs, shakey heads
Thanks for reading the article, and don’t forget to subscribe to our page for updates on our latest posted content! Also, feel free to comment below or e-mail me (firstname.lastname@example.org) with any questions or just general comments. Thanks again and have a great day!